More Champagne - Vintage and Non Vintage

Over the past and in the upcoming weeks, on the diploma course we are studying sparkling wine. This appeals to me in the way you might tell me that I am going to be eating only chicken for the next week. A mix of excitement and dread. Excitement over the potential of succulent expertly cooked cuts that have absorbed wonderful flavours and retain that moisture, the anticipation of a naughty piece of fried chicken oozing with calorific yumminess normally only ever consumed during an ill judged 3am hunger pang and then the utter dread of a mountain of dry, tasteless, boring mass farmed white meat. With all that in mind I arrived at my first session, however it was surprisingly fascinating, mainly for the reason that we were given the opportunity to really think about and distinguish properly the difference between vintage and non-vintage Champagne, not that I was really aware of that at the time. Now I'm sure that those of you that regularly drink Champagne probably know these differences. I am aware that vintage Champagne is regarded as better, is generally far more expensive than NV and only made in certain years. Yet I have done the odd blind tasting where vintage and NV have been pitted against each other and it seems to me that a very good NV can be just as good if not better than some vintage Champagnes so my desire on this part of the course was really to understand what makes a truly good vintage and a truly good non vintage Champagne so that when the occasion presents itself you are able to make that decision to toast it in whichever way you want, NV or vintage but ensuring that that occasion is marked by a wine that doesn't disappoint.
When I drink Champagne, typically I want brioche, I want underlying apple, toastiness, warmth but crispness. If a champagne can achieve all those I'm a happy girl and a good NV will definitely do that (the Chateau de Bousault I've been getting from Georges Barbier of London is a good example) again though the Vintage Piper-Heidsieck 2006 I cracked open for my last birthday was an absolute treat. But how do we differentiate? Well I have WSET to thank for making it so clear the other week.

 

We were presented with a blind tasting, 3 sparkling wines, all pretty much identical looking. The first had many Prosecco characteristics but lacked the aromatics and the acidity wasn't there. I couldn't detect any autolysis (yeast notes) so it was a bit confusing. I knew it wasn't Prosecco but I couldn't detect any traditional method style indicators, someone on my course called it out as a Cremant which I disputed but he was in essence on the right track, turns out it was a young Cava, so produced in the traditional method, which all Cremants are (like Champagne) but only left on it's lees (sediment, old yeast cells) for 9 months which doesn't give the wine the opportunity to showcase those characteristics. The next wine was vastly different. It was clearly a Champagne, had some very appealing creaminess, cooking apple, quince, citrus, floral and an almost slightly yogurt flavour that made me think it was probably a NV Champagne. You could taste the autolysis, which I am a big fan of and some lovely fruit. This was definitely a Champagne I would be happy to sample on other occasions! Then came wine number 3. Well I didn't really understand what I was tasting. The first taste threw me, there was a defined savoury note which really consumed me, my head was whirring trying to identify what it was I'd just experienced. There were herbs, mushrooms, grapefruit, apple and a pastry like dough, the more I tasted the more flavour bubbles burst on my tongue, it was just getting better and better. One minute apple, then sweet pastry, then grass, then mushroom. This was a sensual experience and it was in those moments that I was able to clearly see for the first time what all the fuss was about. Those savory bottle aging notes vying for attention with the bursts of yeast. This was a striking example of a brilliant vintage Champagne and I have to say that I was surprised because as much as I like doing these WSET classes I am always a bit skeptical as to how much they are willing to blow on a bottle for their students to sample (I did my level 3 at Berrys and they did pluck out some gooduns). You should never second guess what you are tasting and this was no exception. It was outstanding and for around £90 a bottle you would bloody hope so! This was Perrier-Jouet Belle Epoque 2007 and what a little belle époque that tasting session was. Someone much savvier than me spotted this and rushed to get the remainder of the blind tasting bottle, sample number 3 for a rather hefty refill! It is doubtful I will be sampling such pleasures again in the near future as these types of wines go way beyond my budget but I have had the experience and it is one I shan't forget (well hopefully not before the sparkling wine tasting exam, if we get lucky!).
 


Though I rave about this wine, sample 2 was great and at £18.99 from Waitrose (their Brut NV) a serious contender for more regular celebratory occasions and definitely more in my price range. Sample 1 (Codorniu Brut  £6.66 on offer at Majestic) isn't coming off too well in this but I am a massive fan of Cava, for me however this was just too simple with not enough time on lees just showing off primary fruit flavours and I like my traditional method sparkles to taste like they've gone through the traditional method. My go to Cava is the fabulous Perellada that you can also buy in Waitrose.
So side by side a valuable experience to try two quality champagnes vintage and non vintage and finally understand what it is that differentiates them so to truly appreciate them for what they are. Cheers!